ESSAYS

Iconoclasm of The Oldest Paris Fashion House

The sun has sunk below a cloud, after I saw the headline in Business of Fashion, “Olivier Lapidus Joins Lanvin Amid Plans to Make Brand ‘A French Michael Kors’”. WHAT? My mind immediately flashed back to the interview with the former fashion director of British Vogue for 25 years Lucinda Chambers, which was courageously published…

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The Dictator of Paris Fashion Meets “Parachuting” Stalinism

We know Elsa Schiaparelli by her surrealistic absurdity, which after a few collaboration with Jean Cocteau, Salvador Dali and Alberto Giacometti resulted in “chocking pink”, “le chapeau-chaussure”, the gloves with nails and many other easily recognisable creations. A few of those were created at Elsa’s atelier in Paris called “Schiap Shop”. What we might not know…

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Behind The Film Scene of the 1910s

The Mediterranean climate and relaxing atmosphere brought my thoughts into the Dream Factory. Therefore I have a desire to share few words about fashion in connection with the film history in Hollywood. Between 1905 and 1915 film actors were required to supply their own garments for film. However, it didn’t directly mean lack of interest…

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The “Antichrist of painting”

Three days on Gozo have made me ready for a date with no one else but Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio (1571 – 1610). Tomorrow, if everything goes according to the plan, I will with my own eyes behold his ‘Beheading of St John the Baptist’, which he painted while settled on Malta. To Malta he…

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The Enigma of Absurdity

A splendid gentleman, wearing a black cylinder hat and through a monocle pretentiously beholding a floating butterfly has, since his debut on the cover on February 21, 1925, become an inherent part of the New Yorker – it is the brand as such. The intricate male figure was created by the magazine’ s first art…

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Depersonalization with Euphoric Touch by Gnoli

Fashion is a manifestation of a visible result achieved by means of an invisible process. It is about ephemeral nature of objects and details, meanwhile art is about eternalising such ephemerality. Domenico Gnoli (1933-1970), a Rome-born-artist, a son of an art historian and an artist, was one, who combined those two phenomena. He both created…

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A “Patriotic” Burglary of Mona Lisa

In 1911 the masterpiece by Leonardo da Vinci Mona Lisa, which once, soon after the French Revolution, hanged in Napoleon’s bedroom, was stolen from the Louvre: the enigmatic and slightly arrogant smile disappeared. The burglary caused a colossal stir and ample dismay. The French newspaper Le Matin offered “a reward of 5, 000 francs to any…

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Fashionable Fashion

When has fashion become fashion in the exhibiting world, conveying a message of creativity, sustainability or consumerism? There are many different spheres which can be accentuated and illustrated by means of fashion. There were quite a few international exhibitions staged from the middle of the nineteenth century to the middle of the twentieth, where fashion…

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Lips We Might Never Forget

The lips – labia oris (Lat.) – is the most visible part of our face and body. Lips are also considered to be the sexiest part of the body, as they are often interpreted as a symbol for the vulva, a woman’s secondary sexual organ. First breath, first word and first kiss are coming out…

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